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How To: Convert your Mini-Z F1 to ASF 2.4GHz!

This short little tutorial lets you bring Kyosho's new ASF 2.4GHz technology to my personal favorite: the Mini-Z F1 chassis! If you've ever rewired a PCB, this upgrade will be a piece of cake.

To complete this modification you will need a complete Kyosho F1 rolling chassis, a Kyosho ASF 2.4GHz PCB, 2x front wheel bushings to use as spacers, wire cutter/stripper, wire (28-30ga), fine-tip soldering iron, and solder.

Here is the F1 rolling chassis with the old PCB removed. Take note of the wire grouping. On the left you have the servo potentiometer wires and servo motor wires, at the top middle you have the power switch wires, at the bottom middle you have the battery wires, and at the right you have the motor wires.


Here you can see the new ASF 2.4GHz PCB completely wired up. One of the great things about the ASF 2.4GHz PCB is that all of the wires are soldered to the TOP side of the board when it is installed in an F1 chassis! I'll go through each wiring group one by one from left to right.

Note: Be careful not to break the antenna wire on the new ASF 2.4GHz PCB!

1) Servo Potentiometer wires: These are the hardest to do, since they are so delicate. The ASF 2.4GHz PCB uses a 3-wire Servo Potentiometer setup instead of the old 2-wire. Carefully disassemble the servo assembly and lift the servo gear rack out of the chassis to get access to the Servo Potentiometer. You will find 3 prongs on the Servo Potentiometer and that one of the wires (usually orange) is soldered to the center prong as well as one side. Carefully cut the wire connected to the center prong and remove the excess with a soldering iron. Add a new wire running to the center prong of the Servo Potentiometer (I recycled a white wire removed from the Power Switch in Step 3). You should now have 3 individual wires running to each prong on the Servo Potentiometer.

These wires are designed to run in slots cut into the servo gear rack so that they don't get pinched when the servo assembly top cover is installed. Since we are adding another wire, you should cut these slots a little deeper to allow for room.

Carefully solder the 3 Servo Potentiometer wires to the area at the front right of the ASF 2.4GHz PCB. The green wire goes in front followed by the new white wire and then the orange wire.

2) Servo Motor wires: Again, carefully solder these delicate wires to the area at the front right of the ASF 2.4GHz PCB. The red wire goes toward the rear and the black wire goes directly in front of it.

When you are done the Servo Potentiometer and Motor wires should be in this order: front <= green, white, orange, black, red => rear

3) Power Switch wires: You will have to lengthen the Power Switch wires by about 1/2" to reach their new location on the ASF 2.4GHz PCB. Carefully remove the Power Switch from the chassis, cut and strip the longer wires and resolder them. Remember to solder to the same tabs or else the Power Switch will work backwards. Solder the new longer wires to the area toward the left rear of the PCB right in front of the Battery wires. The new longer wires that I used in this picture are black as opposed to the old white wires. I recycled one of the old white wires for use with the Servo Potentiometer in Step 1.

The Power Switch wires use the 2 front solder pads in this area and their order doesn't matter. The area where you solder the Battery+ wire is shared with one of the Power Switch wires, so don't worry if they end up touching.

When you are done soldering in the Power Switch wires, you can reassemble the servo by carefully installing the servo gear rack and top cover. Be careful not to pinch any wires during this process.

4) Battery wires: I like to clean up my battery wiring and hardwire directly from the tabs to the PCB instead of using the screw terminals on the chassis. The Battery- wire is toward the rear of the board and the Battery+ wire is directly in front of it. The area where you solder the Battery+ wire is shared with one of the Power Switch wires, so don't worry if they end up touching. Just make sure that the Battery+ and Battery- wires are separate and that the Power Switch wires are separate from each other.

5) Motor wires: These are the easiest to do. You will have to flip them compared to the old PCB, since on the new ASF 2.4GHz PCB, Motor+ is on the left side of the board and Motor- is on the right.

Tada! You are done with the wiring portion of this upgrade!


Now reinstall the rear shock tower using the old front wheel bushings to space it up higher from the new ASF 2.4GHz PCB. There is a white connector called the I.C.S. port that is used for advanced programming of the ASF 2.4GHz PCB, and it is located directly underneath the rear shock tower. If you want, you can carefully cut some of the shock tower away with a Dremel to allow access to the I.C.S. port without removing the rear shock tower. The binding button is also located underneath the rear shock tower, but is easy to push with a small non-conductive tool. Don't use a metal tool or you might short out your new board!


You can leave the short antenna underneath the body for a more scale appearance or drill a small hole in the body to run it outside for better reception. All that is left to do is to bind the board with your ASF 2.4GHz transmitter, and you are ready to rock and roll!

Words and pictures by Joe Chen


 
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