How To: Convert A KO
Propo 2.4GHz Mini-Z Module to work with your Futaba
3PK
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So we have done the KO Propo AD band conversion
already. It was a very easy and quick modification.
So can the new 2.4GHz modules be converted? The
answer is yes!
This time, the modification is slightly more
complicated to do, but if you consider yourself
to have intermediate soldering and dremel skills
you should have no trouble completing the conversion.
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To start off I always like to gather the tools
needed for the conversion kit. In this case, I
am using a soldering iron, some solder, wire cutters,
a diamond cutting wheel, a phillips head screw
driver, a dremel and finally, the module.
Along the way you may find use for an Xacto knife
and a pen/Sharpie as well as some double sided
tape.
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To achieve the modification we must take the module
apart. Remove the two screws on the bottom of the case.
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This is the dissasembled module. Be careful when
pulling it apart. It should break down very easily. |
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Remember the pins from the first conversion? We will
do the same thing all over again.
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Now cut pins 2 and 3. Notice how pin 2 is only cut.
On pin 3 we actually cut a piece of the pin altogether.
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Bend the top of pin 2 towards the bottom of pin 3.
These are the two pins we will jump with some solder.
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THe connection should be nice and shiny. Notice how
the bottom of pin 2 and the top of pin 3 have plenty
of clearance of the 2 bridged pins.
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This is the additional step for this conversion.
We need to move this diode a little bit closer inboard
in order to cut the board narrow enough to fit the Futaba
transmitter.
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Notice how much closer inboard the diode is now.
It is only soldered at the very edges to the board.
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A good idea is to mount the diode at a bit of an
angle so that it never shorts out against anything else
on the board. When mounted like this only the end that
is soldered against the board is close to touching the
board.
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Now we can cut the board in order to make it narrower.
Notice how we cut almost a fourth of the KO Propo lettering.
Don't be scared of cutting along here, there is really
nothing on this side of the board except the diode we
moved (be careful when cutting along it).
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We can now test the board for fitment in the case.
We now have a good 4-5mm of case we can cut off. Typically,
we will mark the case with a Sharpie or score it with
an Xacto knife to know where to cut.
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This is the newly cut case. We are not quite done
cutting at this point.
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A good option, although not necessary is to cut the
corner off the case here. This helps out when you can't
quite get the pins to line up perfectly. Another option
would be to just enlargen the hole as well.
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Now is a good time to use some double sided tape
to secure the board to the bottom of the case. Use a
couple of layers of tape and press it against the bottom
of the case.
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We like to use a couple of drops of superglue or
shoe goo to secure down the plug onto the board. This
really helps the module plug in better into the tight
Futaba 3PK pins.
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After the glue dries, you can now install the top
of the case on the module again. You will only have
one screw to hold the board together.
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A good idea is to use some electrical tape or any
flexible adhesive vinyl material to run around the case.
This will keep dust and debris out as well as make your
module look a little bit better.
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That's it! Check out how nice it looks in the module
bay of the 3PK. Now you can go buy yourself a whole
bunch of 2.4GHz boards and convert ALL your Mini-Z's
to Spread Spectrum!
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Written by
Cristian Tabush
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