Reflex Racing
Houston, TX, USA
E-mail Us
Feel free to call us at:
(979) 215-5719
Monday thru Friday 8:00am-5:00pm CST
Se habla Espanol
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MA-010 - Blueprinting
a car for the World Championships - Part 2
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So where do we start for the second part...
In the first part of the article we went over
how to do the basic build of the car. This time,
we move on to the finishing touches and fine tuning
details of the build. |
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Since we are still putting the car together,
we follow with wheels and tires. At the rear,
we choose +3.5 offset narrow wheels wrapped in
Kyosho 20 degree semi-wide rubber.
The AWD generates a ton of traction, and as grip
comes up on a track the wide tires at the rear
are one of the reasons why the car starts to chatter
badly. With less rubber, there is less rolling
resistance and less friction with the track surface.
This translates into more steering and higher
corner speeds. |
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In the front, we like atomic tires. Atomic AW Grove
tires seem to be the only readily-available tires that
provide enough steering without causing traction rolling
problems. We like to start out with 40 degree fronts
in higher grip conditions and 30 degree fronts on lower
grip tracks. We pair the Atomic tires with +3.5 offset
narrow wheels at the front. If we crave a little more
steering, we opt for +3.0 offset wheels. |
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| Next is the wiring. Although not as convenient as the
screw-in terminals hard wiring your car is really the
only way to go with the ASF boards. The eyelets that come
with a lot of aftermarket motors are too big and they
tend to crush the little capacitor in between the negative
and positive terminals on the board. |
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| Having finished the wiring, we move on to slightly
modify the chassis. Notice how we ground away the small
bump on the bottom of the rear chassis piece so that
it is flush with the rest of the chassis. This allows
for more ground clearance for your car and allows it
to run lower to the ground, without having to worry
about bottoming out on RCP joints.
By the spur gear, we also remove the little guard with
a dremel. That piece is there to protect the spur, but
on a prepared racing surface, there should be nothing
to damage it.
By the way, don't forget to do the bump in the front
too!
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To provide dampening to the suspension we like to
use thick silicone oil. In the rear end of the car,
the most effective point to do this we found is where
the pin goes through the rear toe bar. Our basic set-up
uses 10000 wt in the rear.
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For the front you can't do it through the knuckle
pins because they have to rotate when steering, and
if you did, they would gum up and become a complete
mess. So with that in mind, we apply the lube on the
upper deck where the kingpin goes through. We like to
start off with 10000 wt as well.
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The final step before hitting the track is installing
a body. We have found the ENZO to be a super consistent,
easy-to-drive-fast body. In stock we would select the
McLaren perhaps, but the wheel offsets would chage to
+2.5 front and +3.0 rear. For high speed tracks, We
install a lip spoiler in the rear to get a little more
downforce.
So that is it! You are ready to hit the track. Remember
that this article is about how we build our cars to
get them track ready, by no means is it the way we always
run them. So do not be afraid to experiment with your
settings, because although this set-up will run great
most everywhere, fine tuning it is what is going to
make it excellent. |
Written by
Cristian Tabush
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